How fragrances may affect your health in unexpected ways

Experts caution that some popular perfumes may contain ingredients linked to endocrine disruption and cancer risk.

Which ingredients are specialists most worried about?

If you are seeking a perfume without phthalates, Los Angeles-based Heretic Parfum offers vegan fragrances built around the idea that natural materials have a certain magic. With names such as Nosfertu, häxan and angel’s trumpet, the brand’s line has a dark, mysterious, otherworldly character that reflects its appreciation for nature in an unrefined form. One of its more understated scents, the one I tried, is dirty coconut.

As the name implies, the fragrance opens with a creamy coconut note, joined by hints of vanilla and cedar. As it develops, the “dirty” side comes through in warmer sandalwood and ambrettolide. I found it to be an inviting skin scent with a musky base that made it work from day into evening. It does not last long, however—about an hour at most—but Heretic is upfront about that, saying it avoids the chemicals and additives standard perfumes use to artificially extend wear.

From a consultant dermatologist’s point of view, Dr Derrick Phillips says the product may be promoted as free from phthalates, parabens, synthetic dyes and formaldehyde, but that does not necessarily make it less likely to irritate the skin or trigger an allergic reaction.

He adds that it contains several plant-derived fragrance ingredients, and natural fragrance compounds can still cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in people who are susceptible. For that reason, a “free from” label should not be taken to mean the product is hypoallergenic.