Experts say these lip balm ingredients may be worsening chapped lips

Not all lip balms are the same. Here’s what experts recommend checking before you apply the next one.

Dry, cracked lips are a common beauty gripe that tends to return in colder weather, even when lip balm is part of the routine.

Compared with the rest of the face, the lips have very little natural defense against moisture loss. Their outer skin layer is extremely thin and lacks oil glands, which makes them especially susceptible to drying conditions such as cold air and indoor heating.

“In autumn and winter, lips are hit from both sides – cold wind and low humidity outdoors, then dry central heating indoors,” says Emma Wedgwood, advanced nurse practitioner and medical director of Wedgwood Medical. “Add in the instinct to lick them when they feel tight, and the cycle begins. Saliva evaporates quickly and contains digestive enzymes, so it leaves lips drier and more irritated than before.”

The obvious answer is to use a nourishing lip balm, but it is worth examining the ingredients list closely. Some ingredients commonly found in lip balms can actually make dryness and irritation worse. Wedgwood explains what to choose, and what to skip.

Which lip balm ingredients should you avoid?

That cooling sensation from some lip balms may feel comforting, but it does not necessarily mean the product is helping. “Menthol, camphor and phenol create the cooling tingle we associate with a balm ‘working’, but that sensation is often a sign of mild irritation,” explains Wedgwood.

“On lips that are already compromised, they can further disrupt the skin barrier, leaving lips drier once the initial relief wears off. Many people then reapply more often, which keeps the irritation going.”

Cooling agents are not the only ingredients to watch for. Fragrance and flavourings are also common in lip care products, especially those marketed as more sensory or indulgent.

“Lips are a frequent site of contact irritation and allergy, and ingredients such as cinnamon, peppermint and other essential oils can trigger it, even in natural or organic formulations,” says Wedgwood. “Some people react to lanolin or propolis, too, despite their soothing reputation. And avoid exfoliating acids, such as salicylic acid, on lips that are already cracked.”

Which ingredients should you look for in a lip balm?

So what should you choose instead? Ideally, look for a formula that hydrates the lips and helps seal that moisture in.

“Look for a balm that both hydrates and seals. Humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin draw water into the skin, but need an occlusive layer to stop that moisture escaping (for example, petrolatum, beeswax, shea butter, or lanolin if you tolerate it),” explains Wedgwood.

“Ceramides and squalane help support the skin barrier, while panthenol (provitamin B5) soothes and aids repair.” She also says SPF should not be forgotten. Even though people often associate sun protection with warmer months, lips need UV protection throughout the year.

“For daytime, choose a balm with SPF. Lips have very little melanin, so they’re particularly vulnerable to UV damage, even in winter,” adds Wedgwood.

Hello Sunday

The One for Your Lips - Fragrance Free Lip Balm: Spf 50

SPF should not be overlooked in lip care. This fragrance-free balm provides SPF 50 protection, plus hydrating hyaluronic acid and shea butter, to help leave lips soft with a dewy finish.

Summer Fridays

Lip Butter Balm Vanilla

Several shades have been tried, but Iced Coffee stands out for its sheer nude tint. The buttery texture is easy to apply, though the added flavouring may not be ideal for very sore or cracked lips.

This nourishing balm combines shea butter and grape-seed oil, and has a comforting texture that leaves lips feeling soft and comfortable without any tingling sensation.

How to prevent chapped lips

Wedgwood shares her top tips for keeping lips soft, smooth and hydrated through the colder months.

• Break the licking habit by keeping a simple, fragrance-free balm nearby so you reach for that instead.
• Apply a generous layer of a rich, occlusive balm at night, when lips can repair undisturbed.
• Avoid peeling or picking at flakes, and do not scrub cracked lips. Gentle exfoliation can wait until they have healed.
• Wear SPF on your lips whenever you are outdoors, all year round.
• Counter indoor heating with a humidifier and stay well hydrated.
• If lips have not improved within two weeks, or there is persistent cracking at the corners of the mouth, see a healthcare professional. It may be a skin condition, infection or allergy that needs specific treatment.